Learn a craft, a trade and DIY.



We’ve devoted the previous articles of this series mainly to construction techniques, along with a few methods to address some of our essential needs. But one of a man’s most pressing need is Food. Food is already created in incredible abundance by the industries of the System, and as such isn’t something we tend to think about too much.

Even a Nazi's gotta eat, man. And when he eats, he doesn't eat Jew food!
Even a Nazi’s gotta eat, man. And when he eats, he doesn’t eat Jew food!

But if our goal is to be independent from the system, and eventually replace it, then we shouldn’t discount talks of alternative ways to make food.

The current agricultural methods are unsustainable. Artificial fertilizers increase production, but turns the soil into lifeless dirt. And as oil becomes less abundant and prices increase, the price of food, which is dependent on it, will skyrocket as well.

Permaculture is a relatively new paradigm in food production, which does not rely on artificial fertilizer or even on machinery, yet is potentially more productive than conventional modern agriculture.

Working with nature, instead of against it
Conventional traditional agriculture methods are not born from an observation of nature, but rather of trying to force nature to bend to our whims in order to make our lives more convenient. The result, over time, is the destruction of the soil and the multiplication of our problems. Our crops are besieged by pests and disease, requiring increasingly complex pest control methods. The land becomes less and less fertile over time, requiring massive inputs of artificial fertilizers.

No, goy, it’s entirely normal you have to spray complex chemicals on your crops from the skies in order to feed yourself.

Biologists and naturalists have been studying plants and animals scientifically for hundreds of years. But for the most part, the insights into plant and animal ecology haven’t been put in practice by farmers and agricultural industries. Permaculture was born from trying to apply our modern, scientific understanding of ecology to efficient food production.

The reality is that a forest is orders of magnitude more productive than farmland, in terms of both animal and vegetal mass produced yearly. And it requires absolutely no human intervention. A forest doesn’t need to be watered, doesn’t need to be plowed, seeded, fertilized or protected against pests. A forest tends to just grow by itself and increase it’s productivity over time. A farm is basically hard core communism applied to plants. Very neat on paper, but in practice it doesn’t work. We’ve just gotten really good at working around the enormous problems we’re creating with our methods.

Wow, I guess fairies must be spraying forests with pesticides and fertilizer from tiny invisible airplanes. How else would you explain it?

As fascists, we need to work in accordance with the natural order, not against it. Thus it makes perfect sense to understand how a forest works and let that design inform our own farming practices.

Some basic principles and concepts
What’s some of the problems with farming, and what can we learn from nature on how to avoid them?

First is plowing. This was always very time intensive. The point of plowing is to increase soil fertility by disturbing the soil. This creates bacteriological activity and brings deeper minerals closer to the surface. But over time, the soil becomes more and more barren. By disturbing the soil structure every year, we prevent the formation of humus, which is spongy soil filled with bacteria. Eventually all the bacteria in the soil die and the minerals are all used up. Plowing was a bad idea.

You wouldn’t do this to your friend. Don’t do it to your land, bro.

What about pest control? Why do we have to spend so much time and money pouring pesticides on our crops, or even manually removing pests? Why do we sometimes lose entire harvests to epidemics or invasions? This never happens in a stable ecosystem. Every “pest” has predators, and if the environment isn’t meddled with things will balance themselves out. Our way of creating huge fields with only one kind of crop makes the environment perfect for whatever parasite feeds on that crop, while leaving no room for the predators that control it. Instead, permaculture doesn’t concentrate a single crop in one area, and creates habitats for a variety of insects and animals close to the crops.

Spraying strawberry field with pesticides Spain
Turns out spreading poison all over your food might not be a good idea, in the long term. Honest mistake though.

What about fertilizers? Each season, the earth gets more barren of it’s minerals and bacteria. Conventional agriculture deals with this by pouring chemical fertilizers to artificially “re-enrich” the soil. Eventually this leads to soil erosion (fertile land becomes a barren desert). In permaculture, plants are matched together to complement their mineral needs and ability to enrich the soil. Also, instead of completely removing plants each season, the inedible parts are left to decompose in the field, enriching it and forming a “mulch” for the next season.

Sowing is also big time and resource drain. Part of that is inevitable. But many plants are perennial – they don’t need to be resown each season. Permaculture always favors perennial plants over annual ones, as the former become more productive over time.

These are some of the differences between conventional agriculture and permaculture. There are many more principles to learn, however.

Jews treat nature with contempt. Fascists are actually close bros with plants and animals.

Advantages and disadvantages
An obvious disadvantage of permaculture is that it moves away from clean fields that can be totally mechanized and automated, and towards gardens with wide varieties of plant species not organized in neat rows. That means that while the labor involved maintaining the garden is much smaller, the harvest is much more demanding. It can’t be done with machines.

Land on which permaculture is practiced will become more fertile and more productive over time, even without additional human effort. Once a permaculture garden is established, you can leave and come back years later and things will still be more or less as you left them, albeit more mature and stable. A normal farm, if left unattended for any length of time, will be wrecked completely.

A permaculture garden.

On the other hand, you’ll probably be producing different types of food than what conventional agriculture does, simply because you’ll be adapting the selection of plants to the climate, geography and other natural constraints of the land. That may mean having to change recipes, and the diet more generally.

And here we come to the main challenge, which is something permaculture books don’t generally address because they’re written by hippies. Permaculture moves away from growing grains on a large scale, because it’s way too much trouble without machinery (or at least work animals). They say that’s fine, fruit trees and squashes and all that are more productive per acre anyway.

The thing is that humans need both protein and calories to be healthy. That’s something most plants, outside legumes and grains, don’t have much of. Thus being a vegetarian and living on fruits, nuts and other perennial plants will cause malnutrition.

Ain’t no right wing death squad who’ll accept you if you look like this, bro. And I don’t mean being a Negro.

It’s necessary to implement animal products, if only dairy. But here lies the problem. Animals are usually fed with grains too. So the problem remains.

The solution is to innovate by creating forested animal pens. Instead of fencing of a barren field, you put the animals in a stable ecosystem with sources of food (but no predators) and shelters. Pigs can eat anything. Chickens will eat insects and other pests. Their droppings will contribute the the fertility of the land. Some have already started experimenting with this to various degrees.

Aren’t they adorable?

Once you have a good source of protein and energy (fat), the diet becomes sustainable and nutritious without a need for getting System food as a complement.


Fascism is about conformity with the natural order. It makes sense, then, to abandon the harsh and unnatural agricultural practices that our degenerate civilization is based on and adopt a wiser approach.

No, I’m not going hippie on you!

Like, gas the kikes, man! The race war is all about, like, expanding your mind, dude. Whoa…

Permaculture is definitely the most efficient way to grow food in terms of time, space and resource investment. The fascist workshop series is written within the conceptual framework of a struggle against the System. This, by necessity, implies a need to maximize resources and keep a low profile.

But it’s more than that.

We’re not just fighting against the System. We’re also the harbingers of a new world, a new order. Food is the most basic human need, and a core aspect of the human experience. But fundamentally changing our relationship to it, a large scale social change would be enacted.

So, start working on that green thumb, fellow fascists!

Alternatively, grow a green middle finger to flip off the System’s poisoned garbage.



I’ve made numerous references to ferrocement in my previous articles in this series, but haven’t been too clear on what it is. The reason I couldn’t help talking about it before this article is just because ferrocement is so useful and versatile. Now we’ll see just how crucial of a tool this will be in a fascist builder’s arsenal.

This is the future.
This is the future.

The search for the perfect material

All construction materials have strengths and weaknesses. Bricks are fast and easy to lay, but expensive and relatively fragile. Cob is free and simple to make, but vulnerable to moisture and labor intensive. Concrete is tough and waterproof, but requires molds to pour into and is expensive when you use a lot of it. Wood is light and strong, but demands great precision in assembly, and is vulnerable to the elements.

The smart builder will use the materials that are the best fit for the job, and will combine materials to offset their mutual weaknesses. But there’s one material that is gaining popularity because of it’s great versatility.

After the race war is won, everything will look like this, brothers.
After the race war is won, everything will look like this, brothers.

What if you took the toughness of concrete, and removed the requirement of having a mold? What if you had the flexibility of steel, without the rust? What if you could use a fraction of the concrete to get the same result?

Ferrocement is very simple to explain. You use steel mesh (chicken fencing) and rods (rebar) to sculpt a shape. Then you manually apply concrete to this shape until the steel form is entirely covered. That’s it. Why is this so great?

The steel mesh will “wick” the cement, preventing it from dripping off. This is what allows us to avoid using a mold to “hold” the cement as it dries. Because the ratio of steel to cement is much higher than in conventional reinforced concrete, the strength of the material is very close to pure steel, yet the concrete, if there are no failures or air pockets, will protect the steel against rust. And because the strength of the material is so great, very little of it is necessary compared with poured concrete. A small water tank could have walls less than an inch thick and still withstand the water pressure.

Yeah, you'll probably want to insulate that wall though.
Yeah, you’ll probably want to insulate that wall though.

Because of all these properties, you could use ferrocement for practically anything. It’s water proof, fireproof, can withstand enormous loads, can be made to fit any shape (I knew a guy who made actual sculptures using this techniques) and is relatively simple and cheap to use. But probably the most popular use right now is making cheap and durable water tanks.

Water storage
If you live off grid and independently from the System, there’s many reasons why you’ll want to store water. Of course, if you don’t have a well or access to a stream, then you’ll need to accumulate rain water. If you’re growing your own food, storing water is necessary to water your crops in dryer times. Emergency supplies of water can be a lifesaver in the case of a fire, or if your normal source of water fails you for some reason.

Pedro is working on his mesh frame. Soon his family will be able to drink mexican water.
Pedro is working on his mesh frame. Soon his family will be able to drink mexican water, instead of mud.

You can of course buy metal or plastic tanks, although they’re expensive. And in reality, their performance is far inferior to a ferrocement tank. Steel tanks are very strong, but vulnerable to corrosion – they have a relatively short life-span. Plastic tanks can leech toxins into the water and will get degraded if exposed to UV radiation (sunlight), and thus are usually buried underground. Yet if a lightweight plastic underground water tank sits empty for too long, the air pressure will tend to push it out of the ground (in the same way an empty water bottle will float above the water.)

Art Ludwig’s Water storage has detailed instructions on building ferrocement water tanks of all sizes. I strongly recommend consulting that book before you set about building yours, as there are many pitfalls to avoid and I could never cover them all in this article.

Another interesting point is that the same design could be used for fuel storage. After all, fuel is probably the product whose price best reflects the constant inflation of our currencies, and we always need it. Storing large amounts of it would be a wise investment, sure to pay off even in the near future.

The technique
The first step of the technique, as was mentioned earlier, is to create a frame to which the cement will be applied. But in fact, for some purposes, this frame doesn’t even need to be made of steel mesh. For the smallest sized water tanks, for example (1 cubic meter/250 gallons or less), will remain structurally sound even without the steel reinforcements as long as their geometry is well designed. This would be accomplished by filling a canvas bag with sand or sawdust, then plastering it by hand with the cement. Once dried, the bag would be emptied and then removed.

It's a beauty. A couple of those and you have enough water storage for a family.
It’s a beauty. A couple of those and you have enough water storage for a family.

But in most cases, steel mesh is used to form the desired shape. Smaller projects (which won’t endure enormous loads) can be completed exclusively with chicken wire, while other will need steel rods with a greater diameter.

The wire and rebar will be bent into the desired shapes, then tied together with steel string using pliers. Some projects will require a poured footing on which to stand, however.

You could bury this roof under a good layer of earth without stressing it.
You could bury this roof under a good layer of earth without stressing it.

Once the frame is complete, the plastering begins. This is usually done in teams of 2 people. One person presses a trowel or board against the back of the mesh, while the other applies the cement against it. Thus the cement is pressed into the mesh from both sides by the two workers. This process is repeated until the whole frame is covered in cement. Then the cement is left to cure for a few days. Curing must be done slowly however; if the weather is hot, dry and sunny, it may be necessary to cover the project in plastic tarp and even spray it with water to slow the curing process. If cement dries too quickly, it can form cold joints and fail later on in it’s lifespan.

Potential uses
Ferrocement is a relatively new and unexplored technique. The sky is the limit, and experimentation will yield some interesting uses for the future. In the meantime, here’s a list of things I’ve seen and ideas I’ve had:

  • Geodesic domes
  • Wall material

    This is some Lord of the ring tier shit right there.
    This is some Lord of the ring tier shit right there.
  • Roofing material
  • Sculptures
  • Underground tunnel bracing
  • Water tanks
  • Grain, food storage
  • Furniture (tables, benches, bed frames, etc)
  • Boat hulls (already used as such for large ships)

    If the race war fails and God decides to cleanse the earth in a great flood, you'll know what to do...
    If the race war fails and God decides to cleanse the earth in a great flood, you’ll know what to do…
  • Ovens
  • Outdoor games/entertainments (skate parks, airsoft arenas, stadium seats etc)
  • Defensive structures (outdoor walls, road blocks, bunker reinforcement, etc)
  • Biogas holding cells

Go forth and experiment!



Building infrastructure is well and good. But if you want to actually live in it, or do something in it, you’ll need energy. All activity in this world requires energy. In the modern world, we’re used to fulfilling all our energy needs simply by plugging appliances in the wall socket and paying our monthly electricity bill. It would be a grave mistake to keep that mindset when going off-grid, and expecting to just plop down some solar panels or wind turbines while maintaining the same lifestyle.

Good luck running your 3 freezers, 2 big screen tv's and you industrial oven off of a battery bank.
Good luck running your 3 freezers, 2 big screen tv’s and you industrial oven off of a battery bank.

We need to look at power from two different perspectives. First is the conserver mindset: reduce our needs as much as possible to become more free and independent. In the second place, we need to become very aware that electricity is just one form of energy, and rarely the most efficient or economical source of power for most applications.

Energy efficiency

If we want to be independent from the System, the first step is to reduce our energy needs as much as possible. This makes everything else much simpler. This may seem obvious. But it’s not. Because I’m not talking about cutting 10-20% on your energy needs. I’m talking reducing consumption by upwards of 90%. This is a transformative difference, not just a little change.

The reason this is so important, is that as your energy expenditures creep closer to zero, the effectiveness of your power supplies start being multiplied hugely. This means enormous savings in terms of money and labor. For example, a typical household will consume from 25,000 to 50,000 watt/hours in a day. A typical solar panel, costing 150$, will supply 100 watts. If you have 5 hours of sunlight in a day, that gives you 500 watt/hours per day. So each 150$ panel you buy will only supply 1-2% of your energy needs. This isn’t even considering the vast array of batteries you’ll need to keep up, and the land you’ll need to devote to them (since your roof won’t be able to hold 50-100 panels).

Inversely, if you reduce your needs to 2000 watt/hours per day (which is achievable), a 150$ panel will supply 25% of your daily energy. A little bit of money and labor will provide a much greater benefit than if you’re being wasteful.

Examples of energy saving measures

Here I’ll provide examples of drastic energy saving measures. The point is to get your imagination running in the right direction, and to help you understand that 90% savings isn’t an exaggeration.

Heating: Electric heating should be right out of the question. It’s a huge waste. With proper use of insulation, thermal mass and passive solar heating, it’s possible to keep a habitat livable without any form of heating, even in arctic weather. Add to that a rocket mass heater running on scavenged wood, and your heating costs can remain at nearly zero.
Cooking: Stoves are very wasteful appliances, whether they’re electric or use gas. Use the heating stove as a cooking surface when possible instead (the heat will end up in the house either way). Also, there are far more efficient ways to cook food: slow cookers, convection ovens and front loading toasters.
Electronics: A desktop computer can use up 300-600 watts when in use. A laptop will use less than 100 watts. Cellphones and tablets will consume a fraction of that. Any of these devices will let you check your email or read Noose, so go for the more economical one. Limit the use of televisions, powerful sound systems, etc. For any power hungry device you might want to use, there’s typically a very low power device that’ll do the same thing. Why listen to music alone on your 300 watt sound system if you can listen to it with headphones on a 20 watt mp3 player?

Root cellar: looks better than your fridge.
Root cellar: looks better than your fridge.

Appliances: Refrigerators and freezers are some of the most power hungry machines we use. This is because they run continuously, and need a compressor to keep the food cold. Most food doesn’t need to be kept in a refrigerator. The technique of root cellaring can be used instead to keep most of your food. You can use a mini-fridge for the rest, and keep it very full at all times (keeping an empty fridge cold consumes a lot more power than a full one). Adding extra insulation to the fridge would also help. For clothes washing and drying, there exist devices that use little or no power and do the job. For example, the “wonderwash” uses air pressure (and a little hand power) to clean clothes, requiring no electricity or gas. You can hang your clothes on a folding indoor rack to dry them.

A convection oven uses a fraction of the power, compared with a conventional electric oven.
A convection oven uses a fraction of the power, compared with a conventional electric oven.

Light: LED lights are more expensive, but last forever and consume a fraction of the power, compared with conventional bulbs. Your buildings should have windows anyway, so the need for light should be a negligible burden on your power system.
Tools: For many applications, quality hand tools will do the job, and will require no power. For more intensive applications, like sawing lumber, grinding, etc, it is possible to set up direct mechanical power rather than electrical. In other words, using a windmill, or water turbine to spin a flywheel connected to the tool. This is at least 2x as efficient as converting the power to electric and back again.
Pumping water: If possible, pressurize your water with gravity instead of a pump. Otherwise, get an electric pump that can turn on and off intelligently required, rather than being on continuously.

If you implement the above recommendations, living on 1000-2000 w/h per day is an easily achievable goal.

Types of power

As you could glean from the previous section, the most important concept to integrate when moving off grid is that electricity isn’t the only source of usable energy. And for many applications, it isn’t the most efficient.

All forms of energy need to be converted from one form to another to have practical utility. But each step of conversion involves a loss. Thus converting all your sources of energy to electricity and then converting your electricity into heating, cooling, mechanical power and light is very wasteful.

So our most basic strategy is to take each source of energy we have, and use it in the most direct way possible. Mechanical energy in the form of windmills and waterwheels/turbines should be used to directly power mechanical devices, before powering an electric generator. Chemical fuel like coal, wood or gas should be used to generate heat, before powering boilers or engines. And obviously, using a bicycle (human power) to generate electricity is stupid; it should be used to power devices directly.

Generating electricity

But of course, for many applications, electricity is the only choice, or the most efficient choice. So getting rid of electricity completely isn’t a good practical choice. But we need to be smart about how we generate our off-grid electric power, because many factors come into it and it’s easy to waste a great many resources. Our goal, ultimately, is to be as independent from the System as possible. Thus we don’t want our electricity to be so expensive as to require constant, large inputs of System money to keep it active.

The costs of the electric system can be split into four categories:

  • Fuel requirements
  • Initial investment for the generator
  • Maintenance costs (parts, repairs)
  • Expected lifespan

These costs can vary drastically depending on the location and time, so it’s impossible to give a definitive answer as to which system is the best. For example, if you’re living next to a stream, the “fuel cost” of hydro power is effectively zero. But if you need to rent the neighbor’s land to have access to the stream, suddenly your “fuel” has a cost. Today solar panels might cost 250$ each, but the cost is going down steadily. Repairing a diesel generator might be very expensive for one person, but another might be a skilled mechanic and be able to do it themselves.

The first step is to examine the situation, and determine what resources are available. If your land is in the woods, you probably have free access to wood. However, there will be little or no wind. In the city, it might be possible to get free used oil from restaurants who want to get rid of it. In any situation, there will be free sources of energy to be tapped.

Once you know the sources of energy that are available to you, you can make the cost/benefit analysis for each of them to find out the best one for you.

Alternative sources

Solar, wind and water power are well known, but there are other types of off-grid electricity generation methods in existence that aren’t well known. I’m going to go over them now to broaden your perspective and start you out on your research journey. Note that many of these methods can also be used to provide direct power, rather than generating electricity.

Don't actually do this.
Don’t actually do this.

Used cooking oil: A diesel engine can run on cooking oil. So if you have a source of free (or very cheap) cooking oil, this can be an attractive option. The problem is that at room temperature, cooking oil is too viscous and will not combust properly. So you need to install a device to pre-heat the oil before injecting it into the engine. Alternatively, there are systems to treat the oil chemically to reduce it’s viscosity. The advantage of the used cooking oil system is that you can use it to power vehicles as well as generate electricity.

Wood and coal: There are different ways to generate electricity using wood or coal. The most obvious is to have a steam engine. However, this is dangerous and demands constant surveilance. But you can also process them into a type of natural gas and use this gas to power a diesel generator. This is called a wood gas generator, and can be made using metal cans and welding equipment. Finally, wood gas can be converted into liquid fuel using the Fischer-Tropp process, though I’ve never heard of anyone doing this on a small scale.

A basic biogas "digestion" tank. I can't even imagine how bad it must smell in there.
A basic biogas “digestion” tank. I can’t even imagine how bad it must smell in there.

Biogas: A gas similar to wood gas, discussed above, can be made from decomposing biological matter (food waste, manure, plant matter, etc). You’ll need a air-tight containment chamber to put the biological matter into. The gas will rise up as the matter rots. You can pipe the gas into a holding tank, which will be connected to your diesel generator.

Stirling engine: A Stirling engine transforms heat into power, much like a steam engine. However, it has the advantage of not exploding if left unattended, because it’s not intensely pressurized. If you can get your hands on one, then anything that can burn will provide you with electricity, if you connect it to a generator. This is a very versatile solution. Unfortunately Stirling engines aren’t really easy to acquire, short of building it yourself.


There’s little point in creating independent enclaves to resist the System if we’re totally dependent on the System for our energy needs. Having control over the production of our energy is just as important as producing food.

If we master these various techniques, then we will be in a position to offer the people a true alternative to the System. This knowledge is, quite literally, power.



Okay, so the hidden earth-sheltered habitat we saw last week works pretty well when it comes to not being found. But what if you want to go one step further? After all, someone sniffing around your land will eventually find it if he persists long enough and stumbles upon the entrance. And also, if anyone visits your location while you’re building the thing, it’ll be obvious what you’re doing.

The only real solution to these possibilities is to go completely underground, both during the construction and the operation of your building. This will obviously take longer, be more complicated and involve some danger, unlike all the previous concepts we’ve covered. But since secrecy is a crucial aspect of what we’re doing, in some scenarios it’ll be worthwhile to explore the possibility of completely underground construction.

Tunnel digging

At the core, building underground is about tunneling. And while digging is simple, not dying in a cave-in is less simple, and something you’ll want to avoid.

This is your future, white man. If you don't take into account soil type and build shoddy support frames.
This is your future, white man. If you don’t take into account soil type and build shoddy support frames.

A underground hideout will be constructed out of a series of tunnels linking larger rooms together. For illustration, observe the tunnels built by the Vietcong during the Vietnam war; the tunnels were dug by hand, had rooms to live in, storage areas, medical centers and so on. The Vinh Moc tunnels in particular are a great example, since they were used to house civilians as well as military staff, and were buried 30 meters underground to protect them against American bombings. If building such a thing is possible during war time with no resources, then it should also be possible for us to do it in our advantageous conditions.

The asian hive mentality at it's finest: they instinctively build underground colonies like ants.
The asian hive mentality at it’s finest: they instinctively build underground colonies like ants.

The Vinh Moc tunnels, and Vietcong tunnels in general, were excavated by hand and did not use wooden supports. This is because the soil was mostly sandstone, which is solid enough to avoid cave-ins if the tunnel geometry is intelligent, while also soft enough to dig by hand quickly. If you find a location with sandstone soil, you can directly copy the method of the vietcong tunnelers, without too much risk. But in many cases, additional security measures will be necessary.


The most basic form of support is to shape the tunnel into a vault as you dig it. A vault, by virtue of it’s geometry, has a very high ability to withstand a load. Thus a vaulted cavity is much less likely to cave in than a cavity with straight edges. But this will only work if you have a soil with very high clay content (or you’re digging through stone).

A man could stand on that arch and it wouldn't budge.
A man could stand on that arch and it wouldn’t budge.

In order to dig a tunnel into a proper vault shape, you’ll want to create a frame (a bent metal rod will work) with the right curve, and place it against the wall you’re going to dig into. Use a tool to mark the curve into the soil, and carefully dig according to that mark. Every few feet of digging, reapply the frame to make sure sure you’re staying on track.

A room in the Vinh-Moc tunnels. Those commie vietcongs sure understood the arch concept.
A room in the Vinh-Moc tunnels. Those commie vietcongs sure understood the arch concept.

As an added security, make sure there’s plenty of soil above the ceiling. Some sources say that there should be twice the thickness of earth above the tunnel as the height of the tunnel itself. Digging a shallow tunnel is inviting a cave-in.

But what if the soil you’re digging into isn’t so strong? You’ll have to add support beams as you dig, at least every 6 feet or so (2 meters). Of course, if you start to come across less stable soil, you might have to increase the frequency of support braces to avoid a cave-in. Tunneling braces are typically made with 6×6 inch lumber, but you can probably do with small trees cut around the construction area if you’re low on resources.

Looks straight out of a horror movie. But it should keep you from dying, probably.
Looks straight out of a horror movie. But it should keep you from dying. Probably.

An interesting alternative, which I’ve thought about, but which is untested as far as I know, would be to dig a vaulted tunnel and erect a ferrocement shell over the ceiling and walls after every few feet of progress. Ferrocement, as mentioned before, is almost as strong as steel, is totally waterproof, and when built in the shape of a vault, should endure enormous amounts of pressure. It’s a concept that has definite potential, enabling strong tunnels to be dug in even very poor conditions (sandy soil, shallow depth, etc). This will have to be tested however.

Living in raw mineshafts, while romantic, would probably wear thin after a while. So it’s a good idea to finish the floors, walls and ceilings with some sort of plaster to make the tunnels more habitable. A simple compound to plaster with would be a mix of cement and dirt (1:4 ratio), which will make your walls smooth with a nice beige color. If you used the ferrocement shell method, then you could just paint the cement surface, which should already be smooth anyway.

The vietcong tunnels didn’t feature doors, apparently. Indeed, it would be very inefficient to dig passageways large enough to accommodate a standard sized door. Not to mention, standard doors are square, which will not match our vaulted corridors and rooms. A simple substitute would be to just use drapes as doors, hanging from the top of the doorframe. Otherwise, you’ll have to make your own doors with appropriate shapes.

Like this... but not as fancy.
Like this… but not as fancy. You don’t want to kill the dim tunnel aesthetic.

Since our ideal is stealth, windows are obviously out of the questions. Light wells are possible, but are difficult to build. So for the most part, using energy efficient led lights will be your best bet, combined with well hidden solar panels on the surface.

As you dig deeper into the ground, surface temperature stops influencing the tunnel’s climate and you start to get nearer to a constant 13 degrees celsius all year round. This is a cold but livable temperature, if you’re well dressed, making heating not entirely necessary. But building rocket mass heaters will still make the place more comfortable. It would be a good idea to heat at least one larger room, for eating and relaxation. The heater can double as a cooking stove. You’ll probably want to have a propane cooker as well though.

Trust me, goyim, this graph perfectly illustrates my point.
Trust me, goyim, this graph perfectly illustrates my point.

Rudimentary toilets can be implemented by simply digging a deep hole and putting a seat on top. Composting toilets are also a possibility, but an extra hassle (you’ll have to have storage space for 6 or more waste barrels, because it can take months for the human waste to become compost). We may cover the subject of composting toilets in greater detail in a future article. Stuff like septic tanks and drain fields are out of the question underground since you won’t have an excavator to make the gigantic holes necessary to install such a system.

Ventilation is essential for any building, but doubly so for underground construction. The potential for condensation and mildew is very high in a shut off bunker. Good airflow will prevent that. You’ll want to implement a convection based ventilation system. Basically, you get a pipe running below the tunnel for a bit, where it’s colder. The air in the pipe will be cooled. Then the pipe goes to the surface, where it’s hotter. The temperature difference will create a suction effect, and thus an airflow. In the winter, where it’s actually colder outside than down below, you can help the convection along by painting the chimney black and placing it in view of the sun, making it heat up even if it’s freezing outside.

Basically this, but underground.
Basically this, but underground.


Digging a secret underground network of tunnels is both dangerous and difficult. It’s not something that should be done lightly. But it’s a proven strategy in times of struggle. “Tunnel clearing” was probably the most feared and dangerous type of battle for the American forces fighting during the Vietnam war. That’s something to think about.

As with all the articles in this series, this isn’t meant to be a complete guide, but just an overview and a taste of the subject. Tunnel digging, because of the dangers involved, should be the subject of particular research and preparation.

And as such, tunnel digging should be the last resort. Building above-ground structures, or even earth sheltered ones, will be faster, easier and less dangerous, and it will result in more convenient habitats. But if the heat from the system is too intense, even the most well hidden and well camouflaged structure can be found, especially if helicopters and spy satellites are involved. A hidden tunnel entrance could only be found by large teams going over vast expanses of land with a fine tooth comb. Something else to think about.

Good luck finding this entrance in the middle of the fucking forrest, feds!
Good luck finding this entrance in the middle of the fucking forest, feds!



Many times in past installments, I’ve emphasized the importance of doing things discreetly. That’s because anything you do as a fascist is subject to interference by the system. Just because they don’t prosecute moslem rapists or try to police migrant crime doesn’t mean system thugs won’t spend millions of dollars and countless man-hours tracking down people who want to live away from the system, and doubly so if they have politically incorrect opinions.

When it comes to stealth, the gold standard is invisibility. What we really want is for ZOG troops to stand right in front of our base of operations and still fail to find us. This can only be achieved by digging underground and hiding the entrance. The problem, of course, is that conventional underground construction requires heavy machinery, enormous amounts of concrete and masonry units and makes an absolute mess of the area being excavated and built on. Isn’t there a way to create underground spaces without spending a fortune and attracting a lot of attention? In fact, there’s several.

Mike Oehler’s PSP system

In the 70’s, a hardcore hippie named Mike Oehler published a book called “The $50 and up underground house”. He advocated a return to nature, and a method of building houses that made them blend into the environment, which was a good thing because he mostly built them illegally and wanted to avoid attention.

Arch-hippie Oehler giving a tour of his 500$ house.
Arch-hippie Oehler giving a tour of his $500 house. That’s the fancy, upgraded version from his original 50$ home. In today’s money, that’s like a few hundred grand I guess…

The basic idea of his construction method is to dig a little bit in the earth, then build a wooden frame to keep the dirt from collapsing in on the house, with some polyethylene sheeting to keep the moisture out. The structure is then buried under dirt, keeping the entrance pretty well hidden.

His system is clever, but he had some very different priorities from us, and as such we can make significant improvements on his design in terms of both stealth, durability and performance. But let’s start with an explanation of the original system.

Post, shoring and polyethylene
There are several big problems when trying to build anything underground. First is that the dirt wants to cave in on you. Which, obviously, will really mess up your day. The second problem is that the underground tends to be a damp place, which rots wood and other organic construction materials. This is why underground areas are normally built of stone, concrete or bricks. The third problem is that excavating dirt is a real pain, especially if you’re doing it by hand.

A side view of the PSP system. Blame 70's hippie technology for the blury image.
A side view of the PSP system. Blame 70’s hippie technology for the blurry image.

The moisture problem can be solved fairly effectively by the use of polyethylene sheets, also called tarps. These are the blue sheets usually used to cover vehicles and cord wood from the rain and snow. Polyethylene is an absolute moisture barrier and will last for millennia if not exposed to UV rays. So the basic idea is to cover the wall and floor with these tarps, then shore up the wall with wooden planks. The planks are held in place with big wooden beams that are planted in the ground (over poly tarps, of course) and buried. The floor is then covered in either carpets or wooden planks. The roof gets similar treatment.

If you ignore that stupid chimney, this is damn near invisible to most passer-by's.
If you ignore that stupid chimney, this is damn near invisible to most passer-by’s.

The site is dug in a hill, with the entrance facing uphill. This makes the entrance (and thus the rest of the house) completely invisible to people who are downhill from it. With some clever design, it can make it very stealthy even from uphill as well, as well as from the air. The problem of excavation is also lessened, since the construction is merely embedded into an existing slope rather than dug out completely from a flat area. The excavated dirt can simply be piled up on the roof and the sides of the house later to completely hide the structure.

Mike Oehler is a romantic, not a fascist revolutionary. He places more value on aesthetics than on immediate practicality. His design is based on the necessity of having great light, a good view and his abhorrence to concrete. We share none of those prejudices.

While having no windows (relying on led bulbs for illumination) may not be romantic, it sure beats being found out by the system. Ventilation can be managed with a simple convection-operated chimney that can be manually opened and closed as required (more on this concept in a later installment).

Also, while wood is not that expensive, it’s prone to rotting and is very weak. It’s weak because it can only be assembled in rectilinear shapes. The key to making solid underground structures is the “vault” shape, where a round shape is used to support vastly more weight than a straight edge. Thus, if larger structures are to be built in this style, using the wooden shoring method would make them much more vulnerable to collapse from earth pressure.

Potential improvements

Each wall which will be subject to pressure from the surrounding earth should be rounded rather than straight. Of course, this could be easily accomplished using the cob technique, but since cob is vulnerable to moisture, it would be unwise to rely on it for underground construction. The ideal material for this, short of highly skilled vault masonry, would be ferrocement. Ferrocement is cheap and relatively simple to make, and is extraordinarily strong (almost as strong as solid steel!).

Ferrocement: steel mesh covered in cement.
Ferrocement: steel mesh covered in cement.

Windows should be kept to a minimum, both for heat conservation and stealth considerations. The conventional stove he recommends should be replaced with the high efficiency rocket mass heater covered in an earlier installment. The rocket stove will also be used to power the ventilation system, which is crucial underground to prevent mold.

Tamped dirt floor, with linseed oil for waterproofing. Looks pretty classy!
Tamped dirt floor, with linseed oil for waterproofing. Looks pretty classy!

The floor could be made cheaper by foregoing the wood and the carpeting altogether, and simply compressing the earth with a tamper and soaking in some linseed oil to make it waterproof. Wall to wall carpeting is a nightmare anyway, and a dust and mold accumulator.

Next time…
Oehler’s ideas are a strong basis to build a hidden underground space. He builds cheap, simple, hidden and functional designs. Combined with the many newer ideas floating around in the off-grid building community, you have a lot of potential.

Dwarves are pretty fash... right?
Dwarves are pretty fash… right?

Next time, we’ll take a look at the ultimate in secrecy, the underground tunnel. Most underground designs involve digging a large hole in the ground, building a structure in there and then burying it. How hard would it be to just start digging straight into the side of a hill and carve out a space for yourself?


Muh filters!

The first human need, after breathing, is drinking water. You can’t last long without it. While it’s not something we really need to think about if we live in a city, water is a problem that you’ll have to address if you’re living off-grid. The thing is that water pretty much always has some nasty bacteria in it. Fecal bacteria. And while a little fecal bacteria won’t kill you, if your source of water isn’t pristine, you can get pretty sick on it.

Cities, of course, regularly test their water and add a bunch of chemicals to it to kill the bacteria. They often also have filtering systems. Most people who live away from cities will rely on wells pumping from aquifers below their land (aquifers are large underground reservoirs of water refilled by rain). But increasingly, even aquifer water is getting contaminated. So homeowners will typically have it tested once in a while.

Better hope this doesn't break!
Better hope this doesn’t break!

All this is a pain, obviously. Ensuring your land has an aquifer is a pain. Digging a well is a pain. Testing the water is a pain (you need a lab to do this). Using and maintaining a commercial water filter is a pain. Adding chemicals to your water is a pain. Isn’t there a simpler way?


Rainwater is usually quite pure and immediately drinkable. Plus, it falls on our head for free. Why not avoid messing with wells altogether and just collect rainwater?

Don't let that roof be a freeloader. Make it work for you.
Don’t let that roof be a freeloader. Make it work for you.

By having your own water tanks, you’ll be in full control of your water reserves. There’s no chance of some other asshole over-pumping your aquifer and leaving you dry. There’s no chance of some nearby pig farm contaminating your well. You know exactly how much water you have, and you know exactly where it comes from.

If you're about to drink this water... you might be a negro.
If you’re about to drink this water… you might be a negro.

However, there is still one small problem. To collect rainwater, you need a large surface (like your building’s roof). And that surface will probably eventually collect stuff like bugs, leaves and bird shit along with water. So you’re going to have a mild but constant bacteriological contamination.


While the water will still be good for most household purposes, it will be a bit short of being acceptable drinking water. Most types of filtering systems will get it clean enough to drink. The problem, of course, is that filtering systems cost money to buy, and need constant purchases of cartridges to remain functional. Additionally, they can’t really be repaired without buying spare parts, let alone be built from scratch in a home workshop.

So ideally, because water is such a basic essential need, our water filtering system would need to meet these criteria:

You won't be laughing once you get disentry, retard!
You won’t be laughing once you get dysentery, retard!
  • You won’t die from dysentery.
  • Will purify enough water to meet the needs of a group of 5-10 people.
  • Can be built from scratch from cheap or free low-tech materials.
  • Won’t break, but could be repaired easily.

Fight fire with fire

You’re going to see a pattern here, but ingenious white people have recently developed a method to allow brown third-worlders to stop drinking shit infused water and die from dysentery by the millions. Why they would do such a thing is still a mystery (I mean, help the third-worlders). But in any case, I’m sure they’ll be happy to know Nazis will benefit from their work.

Enter the biological filtering system. The concept is to basically grow and maintain a large colony of bacteria which feeds on the fecal bacteria found in water. You pour your shitty water in the colony, and as it passes through the based bacteria devour the shitty bacteria. That’s the gist of it.

This may sound like something that involves test tubes and petri dishes. But it’s not. It’s so simply even an African could do it. Well, maybe not, after all, the aid workers really overestimate the Africans. But Africans COULD do it if they didn’t have 60pt IQ’s.

The structure

The filter is a tall box filled with sand of various coarseness. The box it topped with a stainless steel bowl full of small holes. At the bottom of the box is an output pipe, out of which comes the pure water. Simple as that.

So simply even a child could do it. Not a black child though!
So simply even a child could do it. Not a black child though!

The water is poured in the steel bowl, whose small holes diffuse the water slowly and gently, to avoid disturbing the bacterial colony. The water then slowly percolates from the finer sand, which is at the top, to the coarser sand and gravel at the bottom.

Once the water reaches the bottom, it comes out of the pipe and into your container.

Starting a colony

There is no need to find special bacteria to “start” the colony. The appropriate bacteria will already be present in the air and in the sand, though in very small quantities. Thus the filter won’t be very efficient at first.

You will have to feed the colony daily so that the based bacteria will reproduce and multiply. After about 30 days of pouring unclean water in the filter, the colony will be strong enough to kill 90% of fecal bacteria passing through it. The result will be safe drinking water. As with most biological systems, it will only get better with time.

On the other hand, you can’t continuously pour water through the filter; it needs to rest for a few hours in between each “feeding”. And if you fail to feed the colony for a few days, they could die and you’ll have to start over. Thus daily use and proper maintenance is necessary. But you need drinking water every day anyway, so this shouldn’t cause any problems.


Why bother with this? After all, for a few hundred dollars you can have a similarly effective commercial system you can install in your building. The problem is that these things add up quickly. The more of your essential infrastructure you can get for free and build independently of the system, the less interaction with the system you’ll be forced to have.

In a upcoming episode... how to build your own water tank. Doesn't it look fun?
In a upcoming episode… how to build your own water tank. Doesn’t it look fun?

If you decide to use the system to purify your water, I recommend you check out the following manual:

Sand biofilter implementation guide

It should answer all your questions. The manuals are meant for aid workers who will mass produce these things for African peasants.  Happy filtering!



Among the first order expenses and logistical problems to address when you have infrastructure is the question of energy. The conventional model of energy management is that a building should be some flimsy and empty box with energy, water, gas and oil being piped into it from the outside. In other words, conventional buildings are useless without being connected to a grid of electric cables, gas pipelines and sewer systems. This is obviously not appropriate for our projects.

The device.

The focus of this installment of the fascist workshop will be heating, which is usually the primary component of power consumption in northern climates. If you take care of heating and cooking, the rest of the power needs can be met with a minimalistic electric system involving batteries and solar panels.

The easiest source of fuel for heating is undoubtedly wood, especially in the countryside. But conventional fireplaces have many disadvantages:

  • They’re expensive and complex to install
  • Hard to maintain, and dangerous in case of creosote build-up
  • Lots of wood is required
  • Fire needs constant maintenance
  • The temperature will fluctuate wildly between too hot and too cold

But in the past decade, the DIY crowd has been working on a completely new type of wood heating system: the rocket mass heater. This is an adaptation of the great rocket stove system, developed by whites to help brown people in the third world. The rocket stove is a way to use high speed air currents to burn wood at high temperatures. The higher temperatures means the wood burns more efficiently and cleanly. This makes it great for cooking, especially indoors in mud huts.

Third world woman, enjoying her artificially increased living standard. Feeling good not breathing soot all day, beaner?

The problem, of course, is that the rocket stove burns wood VERY quickly. Far too quickly to properly heat a space; you would have to start new fires every 30 minutes to keep the room temperature at a comfortable level. So how do we take advantage of the rocket stove’s high efficiency and clean burn, without having to constantly monitor and adjust the fire? Enter the rocket mass heater.

Sleek as hell. This stove is white and red-pilled.
Sleek as hell. This stove is white and red-pilled.

The basic concept is that instead of heating the air in the building, the rocket stove will heat a large, heavy mass, which will in turn slowly release it’s energy over time to keep the room temperature stable. This way, it doesn’t matter that the wood burns within a few minutes; temperature fluctuations will be kept minimal. Another advantage is that since the fire’s energy is stored inside the mass, an air leak will not immediately require additional heating to restore the ambient temperature.


You can’t just buy a rocket mass heater system; the only way to get it is to make it yourself. But the good news is that doing so is accessible to the average bad goy, both in terms of money and skill requirements. The materials necessary are as follows:

  • Chimney piping
  • Steel drum (a used oil drum will do)
  • Fire-resistant bricks
  • Cement for the bricks
  • Source of mass (cob will do fine here!)
  • Insulation (for the combustion chamber)

As always, you should try to get these materials for free (look for classified ads giving away free bricks, or demolition sites throwing away bricks and piping). With a little bit of searching you should be able to get the necessary materials for next to nothing.


The rocket mass heater has several special features that distinguish it from a conventional stove or fireplace. Let’s look at them in turn.

A simple diagram of the rocket mass heater.
A simple diagram of the rocket mass heater.

First, the rocket stove has a pipe for a fuel intake system, situated at the bottom of the stove. This is unlike a normal stove, in which you just put logs in the combustion chamber. Instead, you put smaller sticks in the fuel intake pipe, and only the tips will burn in the combustion chamber. As the sticks burn, they slide downwards until all the fuel is consumed.

Second, the gases and smoke from the combustion chamber don’t escape directly through the chimney and outside, but are instead trapped in the steel drum. This means that no hot air is lost through the chimney, but instead is radiated through the steel drum. Also, the trapped gases and particles are eventually burned as well in the high temperature, which increases the stove’s fuel efficiency.

Third, once the air leaves the steel drum through the output pipe at the bottom of the drum, it doesn’t go straight outside (which would also waste heat) but instead the chimney is embedded in a mass of cob, concrete or bricks, which absorbs any remaining heat before the chimney leaves the house.

The chimney is embedded in a thermal mass before leaving the building.
The chimney is embedded in a thermal mass before leaving the building.

Fourth, several aspects of the design are tweaked to maximize the air-flow inside the combustion chamber. There is an air intake vent, typically near the floor (where the air is coldest). The chimney above the combustion chamber is insulated to increase the temperature of the air. By increasing the temperature difference, a stronger air-flow is generated, which makes the fire burn hotter. As a result of this cycle, the rocket stove burns at much higher temperatures than a conventional stove.

Alternate uses

Being a very high efficiency system, the rocket stove can be put to different uses. As we’ve seen, the most obvious uses are for room heating and cooking. These require little further explanation.

Notice the rocket stove under the oven.
Notice the rocket stove under the oven.

The rocket stove can be connected to a Stirling engine to generate quiet and safe electric power. The Stirling engine, unlike a steam engine which isn’t closely monitored, won’t explode.

Rocket stove connected to a water tank.
Rocket stove connected to a water tank.

It’s also possible to heat a water tank with the rocket stove, providing hot water without having a electric water heater. However, any kind of hot water tank system is somewhat inefficient. Better to use a on-demand water heater using propane or electricity, which insures that only the required water is heated. But if propane and electricity are a rare resource, the rocket stove water heater is a great idea.

A clever builder can create a central stove which serves a variety of different purposes, by connecting the combustion chamber to several different appliances by a system of pipes. Levers could redirect the hot air from one appliance to another.


The rocket stove is a versatile concept that can really make our lives easier if we’re operating independently from the system’s resources. And being cheap and simple to make ourselves, it becomes a key component of our infrastructure.

Hippies thoughtlessly enjoying their white privilege.
Hippies thoughtlessly enjoying their white privilege.

As with anything, of course, it does have drawbacks. If you’re in a urban environment, access to free fuel will be limited, unlike in the countryside where dead trees, fallen branches and agricultural waste can be acquired without great effort. If you use it as your main cooking system, you’ll forego the convenience of modern gas or electric stoves.

If you decide to build your own rocket stove, there will probably be people in your area who can coach you about it. Otherwise, make sure to read up on the finer details and watch some of the many videos available on the subject.


oregoncobAn important and usually expensive part of any building project, whether it’s a house, a bunker or a shed, is the walls and their foundations. Using conventional techniques, you’ll need materials like bricks, 2×4 wood beams, poured concrete for the foundations, and insulating foam if the building will be heated. Also, even a minor mistake in the carpentry can spell disaster, so a lot of care and experience is necessary to make a solid wall. So how did dirt poor European peasants manage to build their own homes in the past?

One of the most popular medieval techniques for building walls was cob. Basically, it means sculpting the walls with mud. You might think with horror that this would result in the dreaded African mud huts…

African engineering. Mud walls, straw roof.

But of course, even mud, when shaped with European ingenuity, can be used to make wonderfully solid walls and a comfortable habitat. Some cob buildings built in the middle ages are still in use today, and are quite cozy even by modern standards.

cob cottage devon uk
15th century Devon, England. Mud walls, straw roof.


Hippies, always on the lookout for ways to save the earth and avoid getting a job, started experimenting with the cob technique back in the 1970’s, seduced by the prospect of having a free house and using natural materials. Many people started building with cob, and improved on ancient techniques. One of the main sources of this experimentation was the Oregon Cob Company, and the modernized, improved cob technique is sometimes called “Oregon cob”.

The material

While I referred to cob as “mud” previously, in fact it’s a combination of three ingredients: sand, clay and straw. The clay makes the material stick together, acting as a cement; however, clay shrinks and cracks as it dries. The sand’s role is to prevent the cracking (sand doesn’t shrink as it dries.). The straw acts like a reinforcing fiber that makes the material much stronger, and resistant against earthquakes (unlike adobe bricks, which crumble during earthquakes). All three of these materials can be acquired for free, or very cheaply.

As a general rule, you won’t want to ferry loads of sand and clay to the construction site; the dirt on the site will be used as a base. All soil already has a certain ratio of sand and clay. You have to test this ratio by putting the dirt in a jar, adding water, shaking the contents vigorously and letting it settle. The result will be a series of layers (sand and clay have different densities, and so the sand will be at the bottom and the clay on top). Then if the ratio is off, just add an appropriate amount of sand or clay (good cob usually has 3-4 parts sand for 1 part clay).

Then straw and water is adder to the mixture until it forms a thick, fibrous paste. Since every soil is somewhat different, it’s a good idea to do preliminary tests with soil from various places on the building site, and experiment with slightly different ratios of materials. Make tiny little walls, let them dry and check which one is stronger to know your best bet for the final product.

The geometry

A structural cob wall (meant to support a roof) will be very thick, often 1.5 to 2 feet wide. It’s widest at the base and tapers as it’s built up. The extremely wide base means that no foundation is necessary; the wall can be built directly on the ground without danger of sinking into the earth.

close-up of clay plaster-ACDR
That’s a THICK wall.

However, while it’s not necessary to dig a foundation (beyond just equalizing the terrain), placing the cob on a stem wall is necessary. The greatest enemy of cob is water accumulation; if the cob wall soaks water, it can collapse. A stem wall, which is just a short wall built of stones or some other water resistant material, which serves as a platform on which to start laying the cob. A drainage ditch (a ditch filled with gravel) should also be placed if there’s any threat of water accumulation at the base of the wall.

kindras_cob_house - 17
A stem wall. Protects against water accumulation.

The top of openings (for windows and doors) should be supported with a wooden brace, to avoid the material above the opening from collapsing.

window lintel
A window lintel. For that old-fashioned look.

The technique

The ingredients for the cob are traditionally placed in a basin, and mixed with bare feet by trampling it until a good texture is felt. The Oregon Cob people have better techniques, such as placing the materials in a canvas sheet and mixing it with two people holding the corners.

Hippie and child mixing cob intelligently.

It’s also possible to use a cement mixer.

Cob is generally placed in lumps, laid down like wet bricks. A layer of cob should be placed on a rough, uneven surface to insure a good bond. For this reason, each layer is poked with a stick to create countless small holes before letting it dry. Each layer should dry completely before placing the next; otherwise gravity will flatten the material, and the wall will “bulge”. If this happens, you can just cut off the excess material with a machete; most cob mistakes can be corrected easily like this, which is why it’s such a forgiving technique. It’s more of a sculpture than a construction in this way.

Cordwood masonry

Cordwood (debarked round logs) can be stacked to make the walls, using the cob as a cement to hold it all together. Since mixing cob is time-consuming, this method will be faster than a pure cob wall, and will give better insulation (since the r-value of wood is better than earth). However, if there’s no wood available on the construction site, this can add hundreds of dollars to the total costs.

cordwood wall
Cordwood masonry wall. This WILL impress your SWPL friends.

Appraisal and further readings

The point of this introduction to cob is to allow you to judge if the technique is appropriate to your project. From the perspective of a fascist group needing to erect some sort of building, the technique offers the following pros and cons:


  • Dirt cheap (ha!).
  • Can be achieved by amateurs.
  • Can be done in total secrecy (you won’t NEED to hire a contractor).
  • Extraordinary thermal mass.
  • Even a rpg probably wouldn’t get through a 2-feet thick wall (… I haven’t tested that one yet)
  • Building will last forever if maintained once every few decades


  • More labour intensive than conventional construction
  • Above ground, so harder to hide than an underground construction system
  • Weak insulation unless you add vermiculite to the cob (a volcanic stone)
  • Needs careful protection against water in high rainfall areas

If you’re going to go ahead with this system, you should read up on all the technicalities. There’s several books available, and much information online as well. I recommend The hand-sculpted house, which includes information on roof systems and all sorts of interesting advice related to construction, planning and finding cheap/free land.



Some of you may wonder about the relevance of having articles on crafts and construction projects on a fascist magazine. You may think it’s for some vague appeal to “SWPL” interests, or a plea for young people to learn trades to prepare for the future. Well, not quite.

The projects and approaches we’ll be covering here won’t be conventional stuff you could earn a living with in society; it’s all geared towards a specific end. That end is the building and upgrading of your group’s base of operations. If this sounds like an impossibly difficult project, that’s because it would be, without the approaches we’ll cover in this series. But it’s something that will have to be done by your group eventually.

If your goal is to implement the natural order in your life and your community (and eventually, in your nation), you can’t rely on the existing social structures. This is because those structures are inadequate, having been developed to support a modernist lifestyle, but also because the System’s institutions will be hostile to your goals and will deny any attempt to use it’s resources. To build anything of lasting effect, you’ll have to rely on yourself, which is to say you’ll have to develop your own resources. This means staying away from the System and building your own parallel system with your comrades.

The articles in this series will be geared towards this scenario. In other words, the emphasis will be on getting things done within the following constraints:

  • Limited or no budget
  • No expertise in difficult construction techniques
  • Can be maintained without reliance on the System
  • Can be built and operated on a very low profile (doesn’t require large machinery, doesn’t produce loud noises, is not connected to the grid, is easy to hide, etc)

The purpose of these articles are two fold. First, if you’re ready to start building infrastructure for your group, you’ll get many great suggestions and avenues for research to help you design and upgrade your structures. Second, if you don’t have a group, or never thought to build structures yourself, this series should dramatically expand your idea of what’s possible these days even with a minimal budget and no skills or experience.

We’ve already got quite a few subjects lined up for the future on these topics. Some of the things you can expect for the future are:

  • How to build solid walls using mud and straw.
  • How to make high efficiency heating systems for dirt cheap.
  • How to make water filtering systems without buying commercial components.
  • How to build hidden underground buildings without expensive equipment.
  • How to make reliable water and fuel tanks on the cheap.
  • How to power tractors and generators with firewood instead of diesel.
  • How to grow food without attracting attention.

So hang on to your hats! The Fascist Workshop is opening soon!